The other thing that happened today...

"BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires" (biturbo228) 10/12/2013 at 18:30 • Filed to: None

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This is my sister's boyfriend's Peugeot 106 GTi. It's lowered (probably a little too much for UK roads), and cammed (up to approx. 132bhp from 118bhp stock). Very minty car, and buckets of fun to drive. This is what he took delivery of today...

Jump...

It's a whole 'nother engine, replete with ITBs. The chap he bought it from was sure that it was running 180bhp, but I think that's a little optimistic. We're thinking between 150 and 170 after a proper remap, but the main thing about these is the !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! (caps lock necessary).

Aya, Almost Has A Cosmo With Toyota Engine Owned by a BMW. > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 18:34

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I always want to own a 106 in white and ride on white steelies as well. and using a very cheap ass economy tires that has no grip at all.

Too bad there's no 106 in my country...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Aya, Almost Has A Cosmo With Toyota Engine Owned by a BMW. 10/12/2013 at 18:37

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That's a shame, where are you based?

You can get the alloys from a Citroen C5, which look like steelies but only weigh 4.7kg per wheel. Very cool.

Aya, Almost Has A Cosmo With Toyota Engine Owned by a BMW. > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 18:42

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Indonesia.

The only 1 series peugeot in here was the 107.

It's looks nice as well.

davedave1111 > Aya, Almost Has A Cosmo With Toyota Engine Owned by a BMW. 10/12/2013 at 18:50

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"very cheap ass economy tires that has no grip at all"

My little brother refers to those as 'ditch-finders', which made me grin when I heard it.

BATC42 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 18:56

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Tell him to get rid of the 306 rims and to put PTS' on:

Always loved these wheels, especially in gunmetal with a silver lip. Too bad they won't go well with my car (Xsara VTS)...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/12/2013 at 18:57

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Hah!

How goes the E30?

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 19:08

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Depressingly slowly. I'd planned not to work for a few months, spend the time working on the car and stuff. So of course I immediately got an offer of work that was too good to refuse, and haven't had time to do much else.

I've done a few minor jobs like... No, scratch that, I've started a few minor jobs and haven't finished them. The rear passenger interior light is in the process of being superglued because one of the prongs broke. The driver's door lock is disconnected from the tumbler, but the bolts holding the lock are impossible to shift until I dig out my impact driver or buy a new one; I took off the door card before I realised, and I don't want to put it back until I have to because I'll break the plastic clips if I do it too often.

I really need to take the time to replace the front wishbone bushings so I can drive it properly, and I'll put safe tyres on it then - but if I'm getting under there, I might as well do the shocks and ball joints at the same time, so it's a biggish job. I've got a shopping list...

I need to do something about the driver's side jacking point, because it's rusted out. Hey, do you want to fix it for me? You're good at bodywork stuff, right? :)

Finally, there's the debate over tyres. Cheap ditchfinders and slide everywhere, or some mid-priced decent performance tyres for about twice the price. Or good tyres on the front, and cheap ones on the back...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > BATC42 10/12/2013 at 19:09

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He's got a set of Speedline Chronos to go on it, which look rather good (although he has just said he was looking at PTS' as well).

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 19:12

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Oh, I don't want to make it sound like it's all bad. Still getting plenty of low-speed oppo moments - the entrance and exit tot he local Tesco carpark are off-camber shiny concrete, for starters.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/12/2013 at 19:17

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If you can get it to me I'd gladly do the welding. Doesn't take too long to be honest. It takes longer waiting for the paint to dry after you've finished.

I know how it feels. Most of my cars are in bits with half-finished jobs that need doing. Each one gets a burst of activity, and then I come up against a sticking point (stuck part, need to order something etc.) and I move onto something else for a while. What that results in is a fleet of vehicles that are almost entirely immobile.

Good fun though.

I'd recommend finishing something. It took me a while to realise it myself, but it feels good finishing something, and gives you motivation to get on with the next thing. Odd that it seems like that's not the way you end up doing things if left to your own devices.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 19:29

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I'll take you up on that offer if it's still good once I've got the suspension and tyres sorted enough for use on proper roads. At the moment going over about 30 is completely terrifying. If it's as simple as you make it sound, that's great - but really I haven't a clue on that kind of thing. I've been putting off even thinking about it because I don't even have a powerpoint anywhere near the car to plug in power tools, let alone the tools themselves.

As far as multiple projects go, I'd almost feel better if I'd started on any of the rest of the pile. There's a motorbike and various pushbikes need sorting and selling, but I haven't touched any of them since I got the car and the recent work.

I've got some time now, but the weather's grim. I really need to give myself a kick up the arse and get something done next week.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/12/2013 at 19:32

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It's the kicking up the arse that's the hardest thing to do. Once you're through the looking glass things tend to come together fairly quickly.

Absolutely bring it by. Half the thing with welding is having the equipment to do it. The rest is just practice, and the more of that I can get the better.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/12/2013 at 19:55

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I want to get the equipment and so-on and do it myself, but I'd need to get somewhere to do it first. Then again, I really haven't a clue. Do I need to get a replacement sill (or whatever that is) to cut the chunk out of?

At least there are lots of pretty pictures on the internet.

Hopefully I've now got sufficient kicking up the arse. As an added incentive, I just discovered that my local BMW dealer has opened this showroom next door:

http://www.hexagonmodernclassics.com/sales.asp

I might start using them if I can get the E30 nice enough to persuade them that I ought to be allowed some 'test drives'...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/12/2013 at 20:19

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It depends on what's rotten and what sort of access you can get. You may just be able to angle grinder/saw out the rotten metal. Then you can buy sheet steel, chop a section out and cut it to shape (I use a combination of pneumatic snipper things powered by a compressor and a guillotine-like metal shearing tool ). Just one of them will do.

Then you can just beat it with a hammer (and-or shape it with pliers) until it's roughly the right shape, spot weld it in place and then seam weld along it.

Sounds simple, is simple, but it's easy to do a crappy job. Easy to undo and try again though.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/13/2013 at 18:23

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Sounds like it might be doable, particularly since it's somewhere that doesn't really show. I'll have to get in there and see how rotten it is, but I'm a bit nervous about doing that before I have some way to close things back up...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/13/2013 at 18:29

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Yeah, that's a good idea. You don't want to be chopping things up and then having to drive around in the rain with an open box section.

If you take some pics of it I could have a look and see how easy it looks.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/13/2013 at 18:48

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Yeah, I was going to go out with the camera today and grab some, but then it didn't stop drizzling. There's not much to see at the moment, though. The jacking point pushed in about half an inch along with most of the surrounding metal.

If I was just after an easy life, I could probably get a proper jack to go under the car, slap some filler on, and not worry about it. Doesn't seem right, though.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/15/2013 at 15:02

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Got some pics today.

What do you reckon? On the plus side it hasn't punched all the way through, so hopefully most of the metal is sound.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/15/2013 at 16:07

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Doesn't look too bad to be honest. The rust will probably have crept a decent way under the paint around it, but it does't look like there should be a gaping hole there.

It looks like it'd be easy enough to chop out and weld a plate over, and the paint around it looks like it'd be low effort to reproduce.

The issue would be if it's got some structural bits behind to reinforce the jacking point. That'd still be doable though.

Have you got a wire wheel and a beefy electric drill? You could have a bash at cleaning up the area to see how far it's spread. Then you could paint it with kurust and then a topcoat of some sort followed by underseal, just to seal it until you get round to chopping it out.

davedave1111 > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 10/15/2013 at 17:39

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I'll have to brush it back and have a look. Is there any way to get paint repairs to match back up without leaving a hard edge? It's not the most visible area anyway, but there are some other bits of paint on the car that could do with repair at some point.

Actually, I feel like an idiot now. I should have grabbed some photos of the paintwork too, and posted for Oppo to look at and tell me what to do.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > davedave1111 10/15/2013 at 18:11

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If you're using 2-pack cyanoacrylate paint it can be quite tricky as you've only got a couple of layers with which to feather the new paint into the old. The paint is incredibly durable though, so it is preferable.

If you're using cellulose paint (which I thoroughly recommend for an amateur painter*), you get a lot more layers to blend the line. The same goes for rattle-cans, but the paint from them doesn't last nearly as long.

You can either feather it with the paint gun/can, and give it a light sand with wet and dry, or progressively mask off areas you're spraying and then blend those together with wet and dry. Not sure which one's best though, as I've yet to do it and be happy with the results. Haven't done it much yet though.

*cyanoacrylate paints use solvents that contain cyanide, and require the use of compressor-fed breather masks. If you don't use masks, you can seriously damage your lungs.